Nothing interesting happened recently. K, Bye.
LOL. Just kidding. I picked up my Argente Brun buck Lindale's Santos. He is amazing.
I'm cutting back on the Woolies send me an offer on any of them EXCEPT: Lunatic Fringe, Mrs Lovett and Stardust. I need more room for the Bruns :)
but that is pretty much it, see you all at the Royal.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Monday, October 12, 2009
Buyers please.
I've had a lot of rabbit requests lately and certain things are really popping out at me. I think we would all do well to realize what it takes to be a GOOD rabbit buyer. By Kristen Drum of Keep's Rabbitry (edited to fit my rabbits)
1.) Tell me what you want!
I get a lot of "I might want a buck or a doe......." or "I want this breed, that breed, or this other breed." No. Please tell me what you want. Are you looking for a Wooly doe out of Loonie? Are you looking specifically for a Black Mini Rex? This will save us both a TON of time!
2.) Realize my bunnies are not made to order.
Don't get mad at me because I don't have a broken sable point jersey wooly doe out of Loonie x ____ with perfect everything. They aren't made to order. I take what I can get just like everyone else, and if they don't throw the color you want, you're more than welcome to keep waiting. If they DO throw exactly what you want, it's my herd. I have first pick of all litters, non-negotiable :).
3.) Make sure you WANT IT!
Please, before you email about an animal, make sure you're actually interested. Don't ask about a Jersey Wooly if you really want a flemish giant. Don't ask about a Mini Rex if an Angora is what your heart is set on. I don't really appreciate spending three days answering a thousand questions to find out you were really only mildly curious. Changing your mind on an animal is fine- it happens, but if I hear "oh... I was just wondering" again, I may kill someone.
4.) Be Reasonable
I don't mind taking pictures for you. I don't mind taking more pictures if there was something that wasn't clear or you'd like to see it from some other angle. I DO mind being asked for 400 pictures of the same rabbit, without knowing if you're seriously interested. The animal is not going to change significantly from today to tomorrow.
Likewise, please, please let me know if you're interested or not. Stringing me along for 2 weeks then asking me to hold it for an unspecified amount of time = not cool. Likewise, don't get mad if I don't hear from you and then sell the animal to someone else.
5.) Be Polite!
Your reputation is built on how you buy just as much as what you sell or how you show at the tables. A friend of mine had someone inquire about an animal then basically email back later and say "Oh, I decided to buy some from a local show instead- I think what I got is way better." Surprisingly enough, she wasn't thrilled to get other inquiries from the buyer. Rabbit folks talk and share info! It's harder to rebuild a reputation than to just start out with a good one! This goes for PET buyers too. A nicer response is "She's not what I'm looking for right now." or "I think I found a better fit for my herd- thanks for your time!"
6.) I don't haggle and I don't do free breedings.
I've worked very hard for my animals. I sell them significantly under value as it is. No, I don't do discount for senior citizen, new breeders, old breeders, show acquiantances, etc. etc. I'm sorry, I don't. Sob stories won't change that. Threats won't change that.
I DON'T do free breedings. My bucks are my bucks. I don't want to see a doe's babies up for sale for 4 times what I'd sell them for, so you can make quick money. There is nothing on Earth that will make me let you use my best bucks, for free (or stud fee). If you want to get babies out of Loonie, you'll have to either purchase his offspring and make your own, or pray some day I sell him.
PLEASE if you have agreed to come to my house at a certain time SHOW UP! I have a life too and I could be getting a lot of work done, but instead I'm waiting for a buyer to show up. If something has come up, because they can and will please call and let me know I don't want to be waiting for six hours, then give up on you and go out to have you show up when no one is home.
DELIVERY I can do in certain cases only. I CAN deliver to shows I will be attending. I CAN'T deliver 3 hours out of my way. I CAN deliver to places I will be traveling to for family events, or other events, all you have to do is ask. I DO NOT drive so I can't always guarantee delivery, it's up to my parents.
I realize some of this stuff sounds witchy, but really folks, be decent to sellers! You aren't doing us a favor and we don't make millions selling these animals (we'd be lucky to break even).
1.) Tell me what you want!
I get a lot of "I might want a buck or a doe......." or "I want this breed, that breed, or this other breed." No. Please tell me what you want. Are you looking for a Wooly doe out of Loonie? Are you looking specifically for a Black Mini Rex? This will save us both a TON of time!
2.) Realize my bunnies are not made to order.
Don't get mad at me because I don't have a broken sable point jersey wooly doe out of Loonie x ____ with perfect everything. They aren't made to order. I take what I can get just like everyone else, and if they don't throw the color you want, you're more than welcome to keep waiting. If they DO throw exactly what you want, it's my herd. I have first pick of all litters, non-negotiable :).
3.) Make sure you WANT IT!
Please, before you email about an animal, make sure you're actually interested. Don't ask about a Jersey Wooly if you really want a flemish giant. Don't ask about a Mini Rex if an Angora is what your heart is set on. I don't really appreciate spending three days answering a thousand questions to find out you were really only mildly curious. Changing your mind on an animal is fine- it happens, but if I hear "oh... I was just wondering" again, I may kill someone.
4.) Be Reasonable
I don't mind taking pictures for you. I don't mind taking more pictures if there was something that wasn't clear or you'd like to see it from some other angle. I DO mind being asked for 400 pictures of the same rabbit, without knowing if you're seriously interested. The animal is not going to change significantly from today to tomorrow.
Likewise, please, please let me know if you're interested or not. Stringing me along for 2 weeks then asking me to hold it for an unspecified amount of time = not cool. Likewise, don't get mad if I don't hear from you and then sell the animal to someone else.
5.) Be Polite!
Your reputation is built on how you buy just as much as what you sell or how you show at the tables. A friend of mine had someone inquire about an animal then basically email back later and say "Oh, I decided to buy some from a local show instead- I think what I got is way better." Surprisingly enough, she wasn't thrilled to get other inquiries from the buyer. Rabbit folks talk and share info! It's harder to rebuild a reputation than to just start out with a good one! This goes for PET buyers too. A nicer response is "She's not what I'm looking for right now." or "I think I found a better fit for my herd- thanks for your time!"
6.) I don't haggle and I don't do free breedings.
I've worked very hard for my animals. I sell them significantly under value as it is. No, I don't do discount for senior citizen, new breeders, old breeders, show acquiantances, etc. etc. I'm sorry, I don't. Sob stories won't change that. Threats won't change that.
I DON'T do free breedings. My bucks are my bucks. I don't want to see a doe's babies up for sale for 4 times what I'd sell them for, so you can make quick money. There is nothing on Earth that will make me let you use my best bucks, for free (or stud fee). If you want to get babies out of Loonie, you'll have to either purchase his offspring and make your own, or pray some day I sell him.
PLEASE if you have agreed to come to my house at a certain time SHOW UP! I have a life too and I could be getting a lot of work done, but instead I'm waiting for a buyer to show up. If something has come up, because they can and will please call and let me know I don't want to be waiting for six hours, then give up on you and go out to have you show up when no one is home.
DELIVERY I can do in certain cases only. I CAN deliver to shows I will be attending. I CAN'T deliver 3 hours out of my way. I CAN deliver to places I will be traveling to for family events, or other events, all you have to do is ask. I DO NOT drive so I can't always guarantee delivery, it's up to my parents.
I realize some of this stuff sounds witchy, but really folks, be decent to sellers! You aren't doing us a favor and we don't make millions selling these animals (we'd be lucky to break even).
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Argente Bruns!
As you may have noticed I recently have added Argente Bruns to my rabbitry.
I am promoting the breed, which had nearly vanished off the face of the Earth decades previously.
They are a heritage breed, and are also very rare. Only a handful of breeders have them 95% of which are here in Ontario. They are a beautiful breed, born chocolate brown then turning silver as they mature.
I am offering transportation of Bruns to the Mini Rex Nationals in Midland Michigan in May, because I only have a 3 month old doe at the moment, I myself will have very little available by May, so if you are interested in the Bruns, e-mail me ( devon@devonglen.com) and I will set you up with a couple of breeder's who will have more choice available.
I am promoting the breed, which had nearly vanished off the face of the Earth decades previously.
They are a heritage breed, and are also very rare. Only a handful of breeders have them 95% of which are here in Ontario. They are a beautiful breed, born chocolate brown then turning silver as they mature.
I am offering transportation of Bruns to the Mini Rex Nationals in Midland Michigan in May, because I only have a 3 month old doe at the moment, I myself will have very little available by May, so if you are interested in the Bruns, e-mail me ( devon@devonglen.com) and I will set you up with a couple of breeder's who will have more choice available.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Purebred Vs Cross Bred
Okay so apparently I don't just have 3 Jersey Woolies does due next month, I have a Mini Rex doe due (Don't ask, I didn't plan on this) becasue out of the cross I'm going to get bad castors, fawns, and smutty reds. Gee thanks Tristyn.
On that note I would like to bring up the topic of breeding cross bred pet rabbits (this goes for any animalas well)
- This happens 99% of the time, when someone is looking for or have bought a cross bred, their first questions are always the same thing:
1.) What breed is it
2.) how big will it get
3.) Does it shed
I'm going to answer these as best to my ability as I can.
1.) It is a crossbred, it could be anything from two purebred rabbits crossed to 67 different breeds crossed, and those crosses crossed to other crosses. So if you specifically want a cross bred, please don't ask what breed it is, because 100% it is not a recognized breed.
2.) That is the thing about cross breds, you can't be sure how big it gets the weight is not a set thing in cross breds, you could get a 9lb rabbit and a 4lb rabbit in the same litter. You can generally tell approximately how large a rabbit will get by the size of it's ears and hind feet, long ears, and long feet in a jr will give you a large rabbit, short ears, short feet a small rabbit. Size is all relative. The thing with purebreds is they are bred to fit a standard, and that standard has weight limits, and unless the rabbit does not have a dwarf gene you can say this rabbit will be under this weight, or it will get up to that weight (in case of larger breeds)
3.) YES. Even Mini Rex shed. Though they shouldn't be constantly shedding. Twice a year is about the average amount of molts per rabbit, summer coat and winter coat (seasonal molting). A rabbit that is constantly molting either has some really bad genetics, or impropper nutrition, usually caused by a lack of fibre, protein, or changes in feed, usually caused by the latter.
So I leave with this note, I raise purebred rabbits, because A.) I love the competition of shows. B.) I can safely tell someone the size of which the rabbit they are buying will get. C.) Because I will get enough sub-standard rabbits out of my breeding, I don't need to cross for pets.
On that note I would like to bring up the topic of breeding cross bred pet rabbits (this goes for any animalas well)
- This happens 99% of the time, when someone is looking for or have bought a cross bred, their first questions are always the same thing:
1.) What breed is it
2.) how big will it get
3.) Does it shed
I'm going to answer these as best to my ability as I can.
1.) It is a crossbred, it could be anything from two purebred rabbits crossed to 67 different breeds crossed, and those crosses crossed to other crosses. So if you specifically want a cross bred, please don't ask what breed it is, because 100% it is not a recognized breed.
2.) That is the thing about cross breds, you can't be sure how big it gets the weight is not a set thing in cross breds, you could get a 9lb rabbit and a 4lb rabbit in the same litter. You can generally tell approximately how large a rabbit will get by the size of it's ears and hind feet, long ears, and long feet in a jr will give you a large rabbit, short ears, short feet a small rabbit. Size is all relative. The thing with purebreds is they are bred to fit a standard, and that standard has weight limits, and unless the rabbit does not have a dwarf gene you can say this rabbit will be under this weight, or it will get up to that weight (in case of larger breeds)
3.) YES. Even Mini Rex shed. Though they shouldn't be constantly shedding. Twice a year is about the average amount of molts per rabbit, summer coat and winter coat (seasonal molting). A rabbit that is constantly molting either has some really bad genetics, or impropper nutrition, usually caused by a lack of fibre, protein, or changes in feed, usually caused by the latter.
So I leave with this note, I raise purebred rabbits, because A.) I love the competition of shows. B.) I can safely tell someone the size of which the rabbit they are buying will get. C.) Because I will get enough sub-standard rabbits out of my breeding, I don't need to cross for pets.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
I don't talk about how I keep my rabbits on my website so I'll talk a little about it here.
I use Wire bottom cages, because they are more sanitary then shavings, the waste falls into a drop trays which can be pulled out and cleaned easily, I use stall dry in the trays as litter. The stall dry dramatically reduces the smell of ammonia. I clean my rabbits at least once a week, and the waste either gets put in a compost pile for later use on gardens or to sell, or it gets put right on the garden/lawn. Trays are then washed then filled with stall dry and replaced.
The rabbits have resting mats so they don't have to be on wire, although I do have some who prefer the wire over the mat. The cages themselves are a minimum of 18X24 for growing out juniors (Keep in mind I have dwarf sized rabbits, they are very small) I use 24X24 cages for Sr's, and a Minimum of 24X30 for Doe and litters, and my utility rabbit. I also have large exercise pens outside for the rabbits, so they can get some vitamin D from the sun, eat some grass, exercise, and fertilize the lawn all in one go!
The rabbits themselves are house in a I believe it's 10X12 barn (I haven't actually measured it) that has 2 windows facing East and south, so I get a lot of natural light during the day. I also have a natural sun light bulb. The shed has several vents (including one of those whirly gig thinga mabobbies on the roof) It has been fully insolated, and regulates the temperature very well. It has a cement floor too.
Food- I feed a 17% protein feed, I have found rabbits do not do as well on anything less, especially a wooled breed. I feed them once a day in the evening, when they are most active, and each rabbit gets it's own specific amount of food based on condition, all rabbits are different therefore need different amounts of food. They get unlimited hay, oats, flax, and greens several times a week, we buy them Italian parsley, and dandelions in the winter from our local grocery store when our veggie garden is burried underneath several feet of snow.
They all get handled daily, petted, and talked too. They also have toys in their cages to play with (large jingle balls meant for cats) They have their nails trimmed roughly ever 4 weeks, or when ever needed. The Sr. Woolies get brushed bi- weekly, the Juniors weekly.
I worm my rabbits twice a year in the Spring and in the Fall. I will also buy a bag a medicated feed every few months as a preventitive measure against coccidia.
My does are bred once or twice a year, and never back to back unless the litter is lost which can happen occasionally, babies born on wire can freeze to death even on the hottest day in summer we try to prevent this from happening as best we can but, we can't play God.
I wean babies between 6 and 8 weeks, and while doing so I cut back on the pellets and feed more hay and oats, because weanlinss can, and will gorge themselves. I never ever free feed my does and litters, I find this cuts the chance of weanling enteritis dramatically.
I don't allow anyone in my rabbitry when I'm not there (family members excluded). I live in an area where fences are non existent, and because our proptery backs onto a forest, I keep the door locked at all times when I am not there. I have had an incident of a kit being injured by a neighbourhood kid who wanted to play with the baby bunnies before we had a lock in place. We also have a high population of Red Fox and the occasional loose dog, so locked the door is because it is better safe then sorry.
I use Wire bottom cages, because they are more sanitary then shavings, the waste falls into a drop trays which can be pulled out and cleaned easily, I use stall dry in the trays as litter. The stall dry dramatically reduces the smell of ammonia. I clean my rabbits at least once a week, and the waste either gets put in a compost pile for later use on gardens or to sell, or it gets put right on the garden/lawn. Trays are then washed then filled with stall dry and replaced.
The rabbits have resting mats so they don't have to be on wire, although I do have some who prefer the wire over the mat. The cages themselves are a minimum of 18X24 for growing out juniors (Keep in mind I have dwarf sized rabbits, they are very small) I use 24X24 cages for Sr's, and a Minimum of 24X30 for Doe and litters, and my utility rabbit. I also have large exercise pens outside for the rabbits, so they can get some vitamin D from the sun, eat some grass, exercise, and fertilize the lawn all in one go!
The rabbits themselves are house in a I believe it's 10X12 barn (I haven't actually measured it) that has 2 windows facing East and south, so I get a lot of natural light during the day. I also have a natural sun light bulb. The shed has several vents (including one of those whirly gig thinga mabobbies on the roof) It has been fully insolated, and regulates the temperature very well. It has a cement floor too.
Food- I feed a 17% protein feed, I have found rabbits do not do as well on anything less, especially a wooled breed. I feed them once a day in the evening, when they are most active, and each rabbit gets it's own specific amount of food based on condition, all rabbits are different therefore need different amounts of food. They get unlimited hay, oats, flax, and greens several times a week, we buy them Italian parsley, and dandelions in the winter from our local grocery store when our veggie garden is burried underneath several feet of snow.
They all get handled daily, petted, and talked too. They also have toys in their cages to play with (large jingle balls meant for cats) They have their nails trimmed roughly ever 4 weeks, or when ever needed. The Sr. Woolies get brushed bi- weekly, the Juniors weekly.
I worm my rabbits twice a year in the Spring and in the Fall. I will also buy a bag a medicated feed every few months as a preventitive measure against coccidia.
My does are bred once or twice a year, and never back to back unless the litter is lost which can happen occasionally, babies born on wire can freeze to death even on the hottest day in summer we try to prevent this from happening as best we can but, we can't play God.
I wean babies between 6 and 8 weeks, and while doing so I cut back on the pellets and feed more hay and oats, because weanlinss can, and will gorge themselves. I never ever free feed my does and litters, I find this cuts the chance of weanling enteritis dramatically.
I don't allow anyone in my rabbitry when I'm not there (family members excluded). I live in an area where fences are non existent, and because our proptery backs onto a forest, I keep the door locked at all times when I am not there. I have had an incident of a kit being injured by a neighbourhood kid who wanted to play with the baby bunnies before we had a lock in place. We also have a high population of Red Fox and the occasional loose dog, so locked the door is because it is better safe then sorry.
Woohoo
All my does where more then willing to breed today!
Which means...
....BABIES!!!!!!!! (in one month of course).
Oh and Pizza The hut, my lovely black orange tri Mini Rex doe is due, on the 8th. I'm super excited for these babies, the last time she was bred to Ice T, the babies turned out goregous!.
Next weekend I will be attending the Elmvale fall fair, and showing a couple rabbits just for fun, there aren't any points going towards anything, it's just a fair show. Then on Thanksgiving Monday I will be attending the Erin fall fair (A Dominion sanctioned show) For points. Then the following weekend at the DR&CBA General meeting, I will be picking up my Argente Brun buck, Lindale's Santos.
October rocks!
Which means...
....BABIES!!!!!!!! (in one month of course).
Oh and Pizza The hut, my lovely black orange tri Mini Rex doe is due, on the 8th. I'm super excited for these babies, the last time she was bred to Ice T, the babies turned out goregous!.
Next weekend I will be attending the Elmvale fall fair, and showing a couple rabbits just for fun, there aren't any points going towards anything, it's just a fair show. Then on Thanksgiving Monday I will be attending the Erin fall fair (A Dominion sanctioned show) For points. Then the following weekend at the DR&CBA General meeting, I will be picking up my Argente Brun buck, Lindale's Santos.
October rocks!
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